Sunday, May 1, 2011

Brunch at Gypsy Apple

Keepitcoming Love and I decided to take a jaunt through Shelburne Falls today and grab some lunch and some sun in the nice weather. While the Bridge of Flowers was ever lovely and the falls were spectacular, we lamented the fact that our favorite restaurant, Gypsy Apple, didn't serve lunch. Luckily, the gods (or restaurateurs) must have felt the need to answer our prayers, because when we walked by to peek at their summer menu, lo and behold, they were open! And to top it off, they were test running their first brunch in three years.

Of course, we had to go. From that point on, the hardest part of our day was choosing what to get. Would we try Chef Michael's homemade hash with poached eggs? Or go for the sweeter side of brunch with waffles? We decided on two of the more eclectic offerings, an omelet with ricotta and tomato with sausage, homefries, and toast for Keepitcoming, and huevos rancheros with homefries for me. To celebrate our pleasant surprise, we ordered pomegranate and orange mimosas.As usual, this is going to be less of a review than an absolute food porn bacchanal, because at this point, everything this restaurant puts out is the epitome of perfection. Like Bread Euphoria, incidentally, one of their suppliers, neither one of us has ever had a bad meal there. With the huevos rancheros, I got a unique view at how painstakingly Michaelangelo prepares even the simplest and rustic of breakfast foods. All the elements of the dish shone vibrantly throughout each spoonful. The dish was masterfully composed, starting with a layer of homefries with a little sauce. On top of that was a freshly fried tortilla shell with cheese, beans, and poached eggs on top with another healthy ladleful of sauce, sour cream, and scallions. It was just sublime. The sauce wasn't spicy and integrated beautifully with each element, giving every bite a smoky, zesty flavor and seeping into the crannies and pores of the potatoes and tortilla. I could have eaten an entire plate (or two) of just the sauce and potatoes alone.Everything had some sort of surprise beauty to it that really brought out its natural flavors. The beans were flavored with lime zest or lime juice which made them creamy and vibrant. The eggs and the cheese melted together, which gave me gooey strands of cheese and yolk with every spoonful, and the potatoes were crispy and held up to a dousing of sauce. I ate all of mine and some of Keepitcoming's, too, and these were some generous portions. When I was done, I knew my stomach was at its full capacity and yet I just wanted more. I felt so utterly satisfied with that meal.
Keepitcoming's dish was also prepared artfully. She had the same homefries as I did, soft on the inside and loaded with spices, but her omelette came with two other surprises- juicy, crispy sausages (one half of which I promptly snagged) and crispy toast which we later learned was from Bread Euphoria! The real star of this dish was the ricotta. Whisked away from Goat Rising, it could have easily stood on its own and was creamy and delicate in contrast to the juiciness of the tomatoes. Another phenomenal, yet simple dish.

I was so pleased to come here on an already perfect day and experience the Michael Wescott and Ami Aubin brunch experience. It really made my thoughts wonder to what else they have created outside the realm of their seasonal menus. Personally, I'm dying to see his take on a burger and fries or steak frites, because I'm sure they would be stellar. For now, though, we'll keep you posted on our anniversary dinner when we return to this gorgeous little place.

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