Wednesday, July 28, 2010

The New Teri's

My review of Teri's in the Italian Market last year was titled Teri's: Day and Night because the casual lunch and brunch diner did a swithceroo at night, bringing out linens and candles for the padded aqua diner booths that saw the likes of scrambled eggs and sandwiches during the day, to serve up fancy 3-course prix fixe dinners at night.

Teri's has pulled another switcheroo on us with the addition of a liquor license at the beginning of July this year. Gone are the evening linens and thoughtfully prepared BYOB dinners, and in it's place are Megatouch machines atop a new bar and the most basic of late night bar foods. The aqua booths are still there and so is the 7-day-a-week brunch with their 2010 award-winning Bloody Marys. No, seriously, they won an award. The massive trophy is on the bar.You can't fault a restaurant for changing their game plan in an attempt to stay afloat in this economy, and I truly hope that the quirky and casual Teri's has hit upon a good thing with their new liquor license and casual nighttime fare, because there's just something about the vibe going on at Teri's that makes me feel good.
The alcohol seems to have done the trick, along with a later-than-usual happy hour from 6-8pm (more accommodating for me and anyone else that must go home first before hitting the town), as I've never seen Teri's so full in the evening.

Groups of friends were smashed in a booth sharing $2 happy hour cans of Sly Fox, and couples were at the bar drinking $3 happy hour alcoholic frozen drinks from a swirly machine behind the counter. Every 5 minutes some eager soul would walk through the door to buy a six-pack of beer to go.

On weekend evenings, a DJ sets up in the back of Teri's where there is a bit of dead space to create a club-like feel that just doesn't add much to Teri's kitschy Italian Market diner dive bar ambiance, at least for me. I'd like to see that space used for a jukebox and a couple of pinball machines.My strawberry daiquiri was sweet and didn't pack much wallop, so the $3 happy hour price tag was about right. Next time I'll steal the shot from the $4 can of beer and shot of Canadian Club combo to punch up the happy hour frozen strawberry daiquiri, pina colada or margarita.Gone are the chef's producing any food that requires much skill. Onion rings, fries, Mozzarella sticks, and jalapeno poppers are all frozen. A couple salads and tuna salad. Burgers, eggplant or chicken parm sandwich, and a tuna salad sandwich are all that's on the short bar menu.

Word is that the menu is changing soon to include more options, and even more vegan fare. Also, more beer taps are coming to supplement their small-ish (for Philly) inventory of tap, can, and bottle craft beers.
Teri's vegan "tuna" salad sandwich is served on toasted sliced bread along with a dill pickle spear and a small side of food-service coleslaw. I like my chickpea "tuna" salad with a healthy sprinkling of dill or sweet pickle relish to liven up the mash, so Teri's bland salad left me less than thrilled. But I sure would be thrilled to see that sandwich if I were a starving drunk vegan that didn't want to leave my bar seat and search elsewhere.
A tad more tasty is the eggplant cutlet sandwich on a hoagie roll with your choice of cheese and sauteed spinach for an extra $1 (you can also choose red peppers, mushrooms or bacon). Marinara sauce would be a welcome addition to bring moisture and more flavor to the sandwich.

Teri's is no gastropub. There aren't 20+ craft beers on tap. Cocktails don't contain floral essences and seven other esoteric ingredients. Burgers and onion rings are not making anyone's best-of list. Teri's is, basically, now a dive bar that also serves breakfast and lunch.

But Teri's has this unique charm, almost like some diner dive bar you'd find in your favorite small college town — minus the college kids, of course. Next time you want a cheap drink in South Philly, but don't feel like being sardined into The P.O.P.E. or Royal Tavern, give Teri's a try. Just don't knock me out of first place on Erotic Photo Hunt. I spent hours getting there!

Teri's
1127 S. 9th St., Philadelphia, PA 19147
267-761-9154

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