A few nights ago, my father and I toasted the end of a successful school year with the Soirée and a 2009 Argentinian Malbec. This clever little piece was sent to me from the PR folks at Soirée, and was exciting for me to try out with dinner.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1G5pexI61AHRkstEpeCfonc-nApD9aRJUXwvDjrUv6oOP0vjLRARkkduJAwJzt9PfKAOtC45i9aCOsFQefwumnqy2WKCkTfJNO-ESQ39GWdsy32H7bK2rlFYoGo5L5LR5fymLzl5Ut4U/s320/downsized_0528001852.png)
The Malbec that we tried, upon first taste, was robust and tasty, and ended up being much sweeter and berry-like than I'd thought, with better legs than Julia Roberts and a fruity, dark nose. Alone, it was really quite delicious, but I was intrigued to see how it would taste with the addition of a little aeration.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGSjiCFUSgCevODZKK4ZZKgVXkp0qEwH1r0UBo7QRBLQWs-eN_SISZTa-Sm1kp_s1vxXXuW3BzIQDwLY7zDGhIninMsehJG95Vtqx2dU5FnndixfJn-DpD9DC-nyBW0TeSlLrUSlkyyQA/s320/downsized_0528001853.png)
Using the Soirée was a little bit complex, as both my father and I were dubious about completely upturning a wine bottle over our glasses, but lo, with the magic of science and pressure, it was entirely plausible. And for a tiny little device, it creates a very memorable effect. Like magic, the wine swirled all over the interior, effectively covering all surfaces and aerating all the wine instantaneously.
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0KFY8wSrgxU4DwnX_q6BGmLBPLPX7-NkJBFxlwBQQN3geG3lbpMMEbMuYk_hOd3bqQmuigrDSFNXprPB3HhqiIsoAuFMb3A3gDs3EWBpuONks1ckR4ubo6TxQlGr7XYGmFQRVnN59DY4/s320/downsized_0528001857.png)
Now, color me jaded, but I'm not as big a fan of this as I ought to be. It's all very attractive and gadgety, and it sure looks pretty on top of the bottle, like a giant glass bong, but I didn't taste any difference between the undecanted Malbec and the decanted one. In fact, when I decant wine, I prefer less of a smoke and mirrors, "ta da" effect, favoring one that mulls over a little more. Wine can be just as easily decanted in a $350 Riedel bottle as a regular glass, letting it air for a bit, in my opinion. Decanting is only really good for a select few, anyhow. I'm sure it released some nice flavors in this one, but hell, you wouldn't decant a '45 Rothschild, would you?
![](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih7BeZ-H0x931n2vzdg5KPoloUabEHlhZ4YExriViM4CEZSBwn_LHzVXIuqRjF9hhxqEX-TwFlCHXDNfME-YOOkP9kfW9FVgFmNPCFRgtSDZ27rol9OiETfOavWlf19yaR1ZrfzecXcF8/s320/downsized_0528001854.png)
This is pretty and cute and makes a lovely gift, but as far as actually decanting, I'm on the fence. It would definitely be a hit at parties when you want to show your guests a good time and can't fit a hibachi grill on your back patio, but if you're looking for a decanter, don't look here. It's all talk and no aeration. And rhyming is for pussies.
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