Sunday, May 13, 2007

Xochitl

Forgive the blurry food pictures. Bad camera, bad.

Xochitl (so-cheet), a Mexican restaurant on Head House Square was the location of a birthday dinner last week. With all the journalistic hubbub after the opening of Xochitl, I was afraid I’d find a pretentious restaurant, but instead found a elegant, low key setting with a mahogany bar accented with iron work, Latin wooden furniture, and rustic blue and white plates. The blue and white plates were especially refreshing, as I’m tired and bored of large white platters showcasing a chef’s work. (I know that food looks better on white plates,but...)

The tequila list is extensive and includes many fine types of tequila, but I’m not a tequila connoisseur, so chose to adulterate that fine tequila by ordering a mixed drink – Profesor Jiraffales, a frozen drink made from El Jimador Reposado tequila, mango puree, ginger and lime. I love ginger, but found the ginger too overpowering, so did not finish this thick, filling drink.

Guacamole was made table side in a heavy, stone bowl and was perfect. Not a single ingredient – onion, salt, jalapeño, or cilantro – overpowered the other. The tortilla chips were real, thick, fried tortilla chips – not the complimentary chips you get at most Mexican restaurants.

A warm zucchini soup with a pretty, ricotta-stuffed zucchini flower as the centerpiece was light and refreshing, highlighting the simple flavor of the long, green summer vegetable.

The appetizer and salad I ordered arrived on the same plate, and as my main course. There are not many vegetarian options on the menu, but after ordering what vegetarian foods I could find, the friendly and astute server pointed out what items could be made vegetarian, and noted that the chef was very accommodating and could also make a vegetable plate. I thanked her, but decided to stick with what I had already ordered.

Gorditas de huitlachoche (I could have used a pronunciation in parenthesis here), round masa pockets stuffed with corn truffles scared me, since one of the first images professors show when teaching corn culture is the frightening, brain-like fungus that afflicts ears of corn corn smut. Corn smut and huitlachoche (wee-tlah-KOH-cheh) are the same thing. Blight to farmers; delicacy in Mexico. Fear not the hitlachoche. It’s black and ugly, but still tastes like corn. The huitlachoche masa pockets were mild and corny, but could have used a larger topping of salsa and cream for a flavor kick.

Ensalada Xochitl was also a simple, but very enjoyable mixed green salad topped with the summer-like marriage of avocado, papaya, watermelon, jicama sticks and a tequila vinaigrette.

I wanted dessert, but simply was not hungry enough to indulge. The churros and hot chocolate were tempting, and came highly recommended by the server. Next time.

My dinner at Xochitl was very pleasant, with light, fresh flavors – very unlike the spicy, fat-laden dishes at casual taquerias. I don’t think you can compare the two cuisines. Don’t come to Xochitl expecting the Mexican-American cuisine you’re familiar with. Clean your mental slate, and enjoy the fresh flavors that Mexico and Xochitl has to offer.


Xochitl, 408 S. 2nd St, Philadelphia 19147, 215-238-7280
Dinner: Tue.-Sun. 5-10PM
Bar: Tue.-Sun. 5PM-2AM

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